From Swinging London to Woodstock, it is the aura and essence that stemmed from both of these movements that perfectly encapsulates Laura Theiss’ SS18 collection - ‘In Bloom’. The 1960’s, a celebratory time for modernisation, peace and love, is where the renowned knitwear designer sought her inspiration.
By looking specifically at a time in history that became a phenomenon for liberating women, especially in terms of fashion and freedom, Theiss is able to acknowledge its importance faultlessly. The Lithuanian-born British designer subtly incorporates the Flower Power ideology into her designs in a much less literal sense, creating a collection that seeks to empower the modern woman.
It was the work of artist Ivan Ripley that kick-started the ‘In Bloom’ revolution for Theiss: “Just looking at his posters in galleries and vintage stores made me want another Flower Power movement.” The collection eventually came together by teaming Ripley’s work with the current state of the world, or as Thiess puts it: “the situation we have in the world now - Zeitgeist.”
Since launching her eponymous label in 2010, ethically and sustainably sourcing the most exquisite yarns and collaborators has been a determining factor at the forefront of her collections. Her design and digital patterns are heavily influenced by the industrial advances of today, as Theiss effortlessly bridges the gap between tradition and technology.
’In Bloom’ is no different; inspired by female equality, Theiss sought the help of a uniquely skilled group of Lithuanian women to bring her elaborate artisanal creations to life. Handmade, each piece not only references a moment in history but also celebrates it, with the tradition of crochet being passed through generations of families.
Theiss’ technique, combined with her distribution of colour used throughout ‘In Bloom’ showcases the three-dimensional aspect to not only her designs but the female-form. The use of white allows the intricate detailing of the cotton yarn texture to flourish, but also complements the introduction of other colours. Symbols of the time are not forgotten but visually incorporated in an artful manner with the help of embellished metallics.
Each unique piece in the collection emotes a sense of nostalgia, of both then but also now for women, through a variation of silhouettes. Strong and empowering motifs are displayed in a feminine and romanticised manner giving an uplifting and playful mood to dressing. Depending on their own individual style approach, ’In Bloom’, allows women to explore and express themselves however they wish and feel.
Not just in Spring Summer, but all year round, the Laura Theiss woman is someone who is empowered, fun-lovi.ng and liberated.
Photo: Rokas Darulis
Model & Make up: Vika Mince Creative
Direction: Egle Renault Hair & Robert Rogalskij